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We provide comprehensive rabbit care education to all of our adopters and to rabbit owners in the local community.  Rabbit care education is another way we help provide safe caring homes to rabbits in need. 

Click on one of the topics below to learn more.

Rabbit Housing

Learn how to provide a safe and comfortable space for rabbits


Learn how to accommodate rabbit's digestive systems. 


Learn how to keep your rabbit healthy to ensure a long life.

Rabbit Housing

Rabbit Housng

At BunnyPeople, we advocate that pet rabbits are housed inside your house as opposed to outside in a hutch.  Rabbits living inside are protected from exposure to maggots, warbles, heatstroke, and other outside environmental hazards.  Indoor rabbits become more connected to your family when living inside with you because of the increased interaction occurring between you and your rabbit.

BunnyPeople only adopts rabbits for indoor housing in appropriately sized habitats or for free-range living.

There are two primary options for housing a rabbit indoors, cages/pens or free reign in a bunny poof room.

Cage/Pen Housing

The main consideration when housing a rabbit in a cage or pen is ensuring they have sufficient space to live.  This includes space to play, lay, turn around, and hideaway.  While there are a variety of cage and pen types, including those specifically marketed for rabbits, we recommend dog crates due to their size, durability, and affordability. Wire-bottom cages are NOT appropriate for rabbits because they cause sores to develop on rabbits’ feet, discourage litter pan use, and are difficult to keep clean.

  • Medium Rabbits: crate at least 42” long x 23” wide x 26” high, this is large enough for a corner litter pan and for your rabbit to stretch out fully

  • Large Rabbits: rabbits 8 pounds and larger require a 48” long dog crate to provide enough space for a littler pan and stretching out fully

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We recommend you place folded flat sheets or bath towels on the bottom of the crate, simply change and wash them regularly.  Even though rabbits need sunlight for good health, and they enjoy basking, NEVER place a rabbit’s cage where it is in the sun all day without access to shade within the cage.  This is critical in the summer months and in homes without air-conditioning.  If a rabbit overheats, it could die in a very short time!

Free Reign in Bunny Proof Room
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Providing rabbits free reign in a "bunny proof room" is a great option for ensuring rabbits have sufficient living space while providing them with extra space for play and exercise.

Rabbits enjoy chewing, so you may take precautions to:

  • Remove or cover all wires with PVC pipe or another hard protective tubing

    • An alternative is the tubing used in fishponds; it is reinforced with wire and comes in several sizes

  • Protect wood baseboard

  • Protect wood furniture legs

  • Protective covering for flooring may be required depending on the floor material

  • Remove or put house plants out of reach of rabbits
    • Most house plants are poisonous to rabbits​

Rabbits require a number of items in their living space in order to stay happy and healthy.  

Litter and Litter Boxes

Rabbits can easily be litter train once spayed or neutered.


BunnyPeople recommends either “Yesterday’s News” available at most pet stores or “wood pellet litter” available at most feed/farm supply stores.  These are safe alternatives to other unsafe litters, and they are good odor control products.  NEVER use clumping or clay cat litter.  Your rabbit will most likely eat it, causing a fatal blockage in its digestive system.  Also, NEVER use pine or cedar shavings in or around your rabbit; they give off a gas that causes liver disease, which leads to an early death.

Litter boxes come in many shapes and sizes.  The important consideration when getting a litter box is to ensure it is the appropriate size for your rabbit.  If the litter box is too small for a rabbit they will prefer to do their business on the floor rather than in the box.  As a rabbit grows during the course of their life larger litter boxs may be required.

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Water: Water dishes should be heavy enough so that your rabbit can’t tip them over.  A ceramic crock or a dish that clamps/clips onto the side of the cage works well.  Sipper bottles are not recommended because they are difficult to keep disinfected and usually leak.  


Food: A non-breakable food dish is best, as rabbits like to throw their bowls around.  (Great fun!) It is recommended you serve your rabbit’s salad on an uncoated paper plate.


Never use harsh cleaning solutions around your rabbit.  Rabbits are very sensitive to chemicals and can develop health issues if exposed to many common household products. BunnyPeople recommends a solution of ½ water and ½ white vinegar in a spray bottle.  It’s inexpensive and safe for your rabbit, your family and the environment. Vinegar is also the best product to remove urine build-up from plastic cage bottoms and bottoms of litter boxes.  Just spray the vinegar, let it sit a few minutes, and it will wipe right off!


It is important to supply safe toys for your rabbit to play with; boredom can sometimes lead to misbehavior.  There are several items you can give your rabbit for safe chewing fun.  Untreated and uncoated scrap wood from your local hardware store and, insecticide FREE branches from willow and apple trees are excellent choices.   Rabbits like to toss objects, chew, and rearrange things.  Their toys can be very simple and inexpensive, even free.  Empty paper towel and toilet paper tubes, paper bags, cardboard boxes (remove all staples), hand towels, empty oatmeal boxes, and certain cat toys such as a wire ball (remove the toy inside and fill with hay before giving it to your rabbit) or, a plastic multi-colored drum with jingle bell inside.  In general, toys that are safe for newborn babies are safe for rabbits.  Watching your bunny play will bring hours of enjoyment to you and your family. Remember, rabbits can’t throw up like cats, dogs and people, so ingesting anything that is harmful or that can’t be digested like carpet or pillow and toy stuffing is likely to be fatal!



A well-balanced diet with variety will go a long way in keeping your rabbit happy and healthy.  Always provide unlimited fresh timothy hay and freshwater.  Good quality fresh pellets purchased from a pet or feed store and given in limited quantities are best.  The freshness of grocery and discount store pellets is questionable.  Refrain from buying store-bought rabbit treats unless they are an Oxbow product; there is very little if any, nutritional value in them and they are generally loaded with sugar. 


Fresh hay is essential to a rabbit’s good health, providing roughage, which reduces the danger of hairballs and other blockages.  Apple and willow twigs also provide good roughage.  Hay should be kept in an open plastic bag and stored in a cool dry place away from sunlight.  If the hay is fresh it should have a strong hay odor.  You can stuff hay in empty toilet paper tubes or fill empty cardboard tissue boxes (after removing any plastic and enlarging the opening to accommodate your bunny’s head and ears).   

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Good quality pellets should be included in your rabbit’s diet but in limited quantities.  BunnyPeople recommends Oxbow Essentials Adult and Young Rabbit pellets.  Young pellets are for rabbits up to one year of age and Adult pellets are for rabbits a year old and older.  Small to medium active rabbits should not exceed ¼ to ½ cup of pellets a day.  Active large bred rabbits may have ½ to ¾ cup of pellets daily. Pellets may be given along with the AM and PM salad, or just once a day.  To ensure freshness, only purchase pellets that your rabbit can eat within 4-6 weeks.  Pellets freeze well, but only for about 3-4 months.  In addition to pellets, steel cut oats may be a part of their diets.  Found in health stores and natural food sections in grocery stores, these oats are whole grains and can be given in ½ -1 tablespoon serving once or twice a week as a treat. 


Fresh water must be available to your rabbit at ALL times.  This is needed for hydration and to keep the hay moving through their digestive system.  Don’t forget to regularly wash the dish with mild soap and rinse it well.     

Food List

Provide at least three kinds of vegetables daily.  A variety is required in order to assure necessary nutrients, including one daily that contains Vitamin A (indicated by * on the list).  Add one new vegetable, herb or fruit to your rabbit’s diet at a time, eliminating it if it causes soft stools or diarrhea.


Before you serve any fresh food to your rabbit:

  1. Wash all fruits and vegetables thoroughly

  2. Remove any bad/rotten spots

Veggie List:

*  - Contains Vitamin A

!  -  Use Sparingly, it’s high in oxalates and/or goitrogens which accumulate in the body and may become toxic over time.

# - If pesticides or herbicides are used in your yard or in the grounds surrounding your yard, do not give anything from your yard to your bunny!  If not, you can harvest clover, dandelion and wide-leaf plantain – they love it!

Beet Greens (tops) *
Bok Choy
Broccoli (Mostly leaves and stems) *
Brussel Sprouts
Carrots and Carrot Tops *
Celery (Includes leaves)
Clover (includes flowers)

ollard Greens *
Dandelion Greens and Flowers #
Endive *
Green Peppers
Kale * !
Leaf Lettuces
(Green, Red, Spring Mix, etc) *
Mustard Greens *
Parsley *

Pea Pods (flat, edible kind) *
Radish and Clover Sprouts
Radish Tops
Raspberry Leaves
Romaine Lettuce *
Spinach * !
Swiss Chard
Watercress *
Wheat Grass

Fruit List: Give 1 – 2 small servings a day

Apples (Remove seeds, they contain arsenic)
Bananas (Very Favorite)
Grapes (Remove seeds)

Oranges (Include peel)
Peaches (Remove pit)


Example of full-day serving size for a medium 3 – 5 lb rabbit (i.e. Mini-lop):


2 romaine leaves, 2 endive stems/leaves, 4 sprigs of parsley, 4 sprigs of cilantro, 2 inches of carrot, and 1 inch of banana or a small apple wedge.  Adjust for smaller or larger rabbits and divide in half if you’re feeding in the AM and the PM



Rabbits are generally low-maintenance animals, only requiring nail trimming, checking their teeth every few months, brushing their coat to remove loose fur, and lots of love.

  • Nail Trimming: Your Veterinarian can trim your rabbit's nails, and, if you care to learn, will instruct you in the proper and safe way to do this simple but necessary function. 

  • Checking teeth: Take a minute every few months to inspect your rabbit's teeth for proper length and alignment.  They should be straight and not overlap.  If you notice any unusual wetness around your rabbit's mouth, this is a sign of teeth/mouth problems and needs Veterinarian attention.

  • Grooming: Brushing your rabbit often with a soft slicker or bristle brush not only improves your rabbit's appearance but removes loose fur which can cause hairballs when ingested in large amounts.  Long-hair breeds may require daily brushing to eliminate matting as well as a cautionary aid in the prevention of hairballs.  A comb or brush with stiff bristles may work better on long-hair breeds.  Professional grooming is also available.  Be careful when combing/brushing your rabbit as its skin is very thin and fragile like tissue paper and can tear very easily.  

  • Weight: Always be aware of any weight fluctuations your rabbit may be experiencing.  This could be a sign of a medical problem and should be addressed with your veterinarian. 

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The adage “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” is most pertinent in bunny care.  Common medications used to treat most pets are toxic to rabbits and can cause death.  Therefore, it is vital to choose a veterinarian knowledgeable in rabbit care.

Choosing a Veterinarian for Your Rabbit

The most important requirement is to choose a Veterinarian with a working knowledge and experience in rabbit medicine.  A list of rabbit-savvy Veterinarians is available by emailing us.


Always establish your rabbit as a client with your Veterinarian with a general check-up a month after obtaining your rabbit before an emergency arises.

Spaying and Neutering

BunnyPeople is a strong advocate of spaying and neutering.  It can stop aggressive behavior and make your rabbit a more enjoyable companion.  It can also prolong the life of your rabbit by reducing the risk of some cancers.

Once a rabbit reaches 4 – 5 months of age, they become sexually mature and the drive to reproduce can change an adorable, cuddly rabbit into an obsessive/compulsive adolescent with behaviors that can turn aggressive.  Rabbits can produce a litter in 28 days and breed again in 3 days!

There are many more rabbits than there are good homes, so please don’t add to the problem.  Be responsible…spay or neuter All pets!

Signs of a Problem

The following symptoms let you know something is abnormal in your rabbit and they may require medical attention.  The final decision to call your veterinarian is yours.  Keep in mind that rabbit’s symptoms of illness are often sudden and can detoriate quickly if not properly treated.

General warning signs of trouble – Your Veterinarian should be consulted when you notice:

  • Decreased Activity

  • Swellings / Lumps on the Body

  • Weight Loss

  • Hair Loss and Scratching

  • Trouble Breathing

  • Discharge from Eyes, Nose or Mouth

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  • Stopped Eating – First check your bunny’s teeth; make sure they are straight and not so long that they overlap.  A rabbit that hasn’t eaten in 12 – 24 hours is SERIOUS and a real reason for concern.

  • Decreased Urine Output – If you notice your rabbit is not urinating in the same volume as normal or if it seems to be straining to urinate or using the litter box more frequently than usual, this could be symptomatic of calcium sludge in the urinary tract or a bladder infection.  Once again, these symptoms need to be addressed immediately.

  • String-of-Pearls Poop – When the stool is strung together with what appears to be hair, this could be the beginning of a hairball problem.  If not monitored, it has the potential to become serious!  If this condition persists, consult your Veterinarian.  Giving your rabbit two or three pencil eraser size pieces of dried pineapple or dried papaya or a teaspoon of canned pumpkin (NOT canned pumpkin pie mix) can help to move the hairball along.

  • Poopy Butt – Sometimes due to change in diet, age or for no apparent reason, your rabbit may have soft stools that stick to the genital area.  Use baby shampoo and warm water to soak and remove feces.  Cutting back on the serving size of your rabbit’s greens and increasing their timothy hay intake may also help this problem.

  • Diarrhea – Liquid Stools.  THIS IS VERY SERIOUS and requires immediate medical attention!!!  Note:  If your Veterinarian prescribes yogurt as a dietary supplement, make sure it is a good quality with no fruit or sugar and contains live active-cultures such as L. Acidophilus.

  • Swallowed Objects – If your bunny swallows any unintended object or chews on an electrical cord resulting in a shock, your veterinarian should be consulted immediately.

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